I love credit cards so much!

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I just got an offer in the mail for the Barclay Arrival Plus World Elite MasterCard. To get 60000 points I would have to spend $3000 in 90 days then another $3000 in 180 days. Has an $89 AF. Anyone else get this offer? Is it a good one? I guess I'd have to ask myself is it worth taking my last */24 spot. Since I just got to 4/24.
 
Thanks to all who responded about the SW flights. I've advised the friend to transfer to RR for flexibility sake. I appreciate your input.

SM'd Friday to have my CIC expedited and it was waiting for me when I got home yesterday! Woo hoo!! Now I'm trying to figure out my strategy for $3000 in Disney GCs to get my APs. I'm working out the math and it seems it's a much better deal to use the CIC to buy Disney GC from Staples (would have to be online as there are no stores anywhere near me) and get 5x UR on that purchase. I know I'd have to pay the $1.99 shipping fee on each card, but that route still seems like a better return than buying the Disney GCs from Sam's Club since the percentage savings there is not much and it would only be 1x UR on the CIC. Thoughts?
What other UR cards do you have? I'm not as good as @Lain at remembering...
 
Over the years of having a SW CP, I'd refined my approach to booking tickets. I would buy for myself, then wait and see if prices changed and get to a point where I was happy with the fare before booking the CP ticket because it's been difficult to get point refunds in the past if I had a CP attached to my booking (first I had to cancel the CP, then change my fare, then add the CP back on and the website just was not very good about that, I'd get errors all the time). Well, I just got burned by that game plan.

I redeemed RRs on 5/31 when the calendar covering the holidays came out for tickets to Costa Rica for DH and me over Thanksgiving week, figuring I'd add DD as my companion later on. When I got back from our Italy trip, I went to add DD...and the flight is sold out on the returning leg, all fares are sold out. :guilty: Ugh.

I keep checking back to see if by chance someone has canceled, but so far not lucky on that front.

So on to Plan B: I used AAnytime miles (no SAAvers available) to book one-way tickets for the way back for us and I have that reservation on hold for 5 days. In the meantime I'll keep hoping someone cancels on Southwest. I guess I was fortunate in that I never did find a J class award ticket to get to Italy, because now I still have the miles in my account to cover the Costa Rica return leg!

I'll be getting around 2.4 cpm value out of those AA miles. Currently there's a AA mile sale where if you buy the maximum, you end up buying them for 1.55 cpm and it's really tempting me right now. But I'm pretty sure DH would not be happy with me.

Lesson I've learned: if it's a holiday travel time, get the award tickets as soon as you can. And have a Plan B.
 


I have CSR and CIP, but I want to use the CIC for this purchase for MSR.
I like to calculate things based on, what is my OOP cost vs value I'm getting of gift card plus reward points, so:

OOP cost/(gift card value + URs at 1.5cpp with CSR)
So OOP cost is what % of face value you're paying... Hope that makes sense :)

  1. If Office Depot/Max near you has Disney GC ~ 93.0% (pay $3000 for $3225)
  2. Buying from Sam's online ~ 94.0% (pay $2859.60 for $3042.89)
  3. Buying from Staple's online ~ 94.7% (pay $3059.70 for $3229.48)
  4. Buying from Sam's in store ~ 95.3% (pay $2899.60 for $3043.49)
That's what I got... depends on how quickly you want them :)
 
That's funny! My DH and I have pretty much changed how we eat out on our "date nights" entirely because we don't really like spending lots of $$$ on huge entree portions we don't finish. We now go to the same $$$ restaurants, but go during happy hour at the bar. Three of our favorite restaurants have happy hour menus with "small plates" and slightly discounted drinks. We get to try a few different small plates (cooked by the same $$$ chefs - often just smaller portions of regular apps or entrees) and have yummy drinks (seriously - all three make amazing cocktails with all kinds of interesting, fresh ingredients), without feeling stuffed and it seriously costs half of what a full dinner would be. Its still not what you'd call cheap (like $60/$70 for the two of us, including a couple of drinks), and some people might not see the "value" when you are spending $6 for a small plate that consists of 6 or 8 bites of food, but when those 6 or 8 bites are totally delicious, it works for us.
Great idea...I’ve got to work on getting him to different places
 


Thanks to all who responded about the SW flights. I've advised the friend to transfer to RR for flexibility sake. I appreciate your input.

SM'd Friday to have my CIC expedited and it was waiting for me when I got home yesterday! Woo hoo!! Now I'm trying to figure out my strategy for $3000 in Disney GCs to get my APs. I'm working out the math and it seems it's a much better deal to use the CIC to buy Disney GC from Staples (would have to be online as there are no stores anywhere near me) and get 5x UR on that purchase. I know I'd have to pay the $1.99 shipping fee on each card, but that route still seems like a better return than buying the Disney GCs from Sam's Club since the percentage savings there is not much and it would only be 1x UR on the CIC. Thoughts?

CIC gets you 5x UR on the Gyft app/website using PayPal checkout. Gyft sells Walmart e-gift cards up to $250. Walmart GCs can still be used to buy discounted Disney GCs at Sam’s Club, so you’re essentially shifting over the 5x bonus category from Gyft to Sam’s Club with the gift card that you earned 5x on.

If you do go this route, two things you should consider:

1. Gyft is very sensitive to new users making big and/or frequent purchases. They may hold your order pending verification or cancel your order if they suspect fraud. You kind of have to ease in to your gift card purchases and establish some kind of history or pattern, then you shouldn’t have many problems over time.

2. With the news this week that Target stopped allowing GC>GC (and Best Buy stopping just before that), I can’t offer any guarantees that Walmart and Sam’s Club will continue accepting GC>GC or for how much longer. It’s always a good idea never to be sitting on gift cards for too long, convert them into what you actually want ASAP, and don’t have on hand any more than you have a use for other than third-party gift cards.
 
I like to calculate things based on, what is my OOP cost vs value I'm getting of gift card plus reward points, so:

OOP cost/(gift card value + URs at 1.5cpp with CSR)
So OOP cost is what % of face value you're paying... Hope that makes sense :)

  1. If Office Depot/Max near you has Disney GC ~ 93.0% (pay $3000 for $3225)
  2. Buying from Sam's online ~ 94.0% (pay $2859.60 for $3042.89)
  3. Buying from Staple's online ~ 94.7% (pay $3059.70 for $3229.48)
  4. Buying from Sam's in store ~ 95.3% (pay $2899.60 for $3043.49)
That's what I got... depends on how quickly you want them :)

Thank so much! This is what I was trying to calculate, but your math is much cleaner than mine looks. My brain is definitely failing me today.

CIC gets you 5x UR on the Gyft app/website using PayPal checkout. Gyft sells Walmart e-gift cards up to $250. Walmart GCs can still be used to buy discounted Disney GCs at Sam’s Club, so you’re essentially shifting over the 5x bonus category with the gift card that you got 5x on.

If you do go this route, two things you should consider:

1. Gyft is very sensitive to new users making big and/or frequent purchases. They may hold your order pending verification or cancel your order if they suspect fraud. You kind of have to ease in to your gift card purchases and establish some kind of history or pattern, then you shouldn’t have many problems over time.

2. With the news this week that Target stopped allowing GC>GC (and Best Buy stopping just before that), I can’t offer any guarantees that Walmart and Sam’s Club will continue accepting GC>GC or for how much longer. It’s always a good idea never to be sitting on gift cards for too long, convert them into what you actually want ASAP, and don’t have on hand any more than you have a use for other than third-party gift cards.

Thanks! I didn't even think about Gyft. I've used the app to buy WM GC before, but never for this quantity. I've never been able to do GC>GC at our BB and haven't done it at Target since the glory days of Ebay>Target>rinse>repeat. Sam's has been my go to for Disney GCs using WM cards cashed out from Swagbucks, so I considered getting WM cards to use at Sam's, but didn't think about using Gyft to still get 5x. That helps tremendously.
 
So, I’ve never been to this side of the disboards before, but you guys seem to be full of good advice. I was recently planning to get a Disney Visa card, back when they were running the $100 of rewards promotion for the regular card. But I realized I could get more if a friend referred me, so I waited on someone only to find out months later that their card is ineligible. Now the promo is $50 if I sign up on my own. Is there a point to doing it now or are the chase offers cyclical in which case I should wait it out a few months for a better deal? I’m still trying to see if I know anyone else with the card, but I don’t think I do.
 
Thank so much! This is what I was trying to calculate, but your math is much cleaner than mine looks. My brain is definitely failing me today.



Thanks! I didn't even think about Gyft. I've used the app to buy WM GC before, but never for this quantity. I've never been able to do GC>GC at our BB and haven't done it at Target since the glory days of Ebay>Target>rinse>repeat. Sam's has been my go to for Disney GCs using WM cards cashed out from Swagbucks, so I considered getting WM cards to use at Sam's, but didn't think about using Gyft to still get 5x. That helps tremendously.
I always forget Gyft. @Lain is on top of it! That would be about 89% ($2859.60 for $3214.47) if you could do it all through that way :)
 
So, I’ve never been to this side of the disboards before, but you guys seem to be full of good advice. I was recently planning to get a Disney Visa card, back when they were running the $100 of rewards promotion for the regular card. But I realized I could get more if a friend referred me, so I waited on someone only to find out months later that their card is ineligible. Now the promo is $50 if I sign up on my own. Is there a point to doing it now or are the chase offers cyclical in which case I should wait it out a few months for a better deal? I’m still trying to see if I know anyone else with the card, but I don’t think I do.

We have support links on our private Reddit page for the $200 offer. Message @SouthFayetteFan @Albort or @Lain with your Reddit name and they can add you.

However, you can get a better reward towards a Disney vacation than just $200. I’m using points to pay for a six night stay at the Disneyland hotel and five day park hopper tickets. Let us know if you are interested and we can make some better suggestions.
 
Uhhh, Chase just lowered SO’s credit limit for the CSP/CSR to 4,000 each. It was at 25,000 and 17,000. I thought the minimum for the CSR was 10,000 doesn’t the limit have to be a certain amount or they can’t legally charge the annual fee?
 
We have support links on our private Reddit page for the $200 offer. Message @SouthFayetteFan @Albort or @Lain with your Reddit name and they can add you.

However, you can get a better reward towards a Disney vacation than just $200. I’m using points to pay for a six night stay at the Disneyland hotel and five day park hopper tickets. Let us know if you are interested and we can make some better suggestions.
Thanks. I messaged them. I mainly getting the card for the discount on tours for my December trip (and Disney story). It seemed silly to pay full price when there was an easy way to get a discount the reward $ was just an extra bonus that I’d rather take advantage of if I can.
 
Uhhh, Chase just lowered SO’s credit limit for the CSP/CSR to 4,000 each. It was at 25,000 and 17,000. I thought the minimum for the CSR was 10,000 doesn’t the limit have to be a certain amount or they can’t legally charge the annual fee?

I didn't know there was a limit for annual fees. Does he need any more than $4K each on these cards right now? In time they will probably go back up.

We've heard from a number of people who've gotten fee cards with smaller credit limits, including someone who got a 1K limit. I think this is just Chase's way of managing their risk. It's a much better result than having your cards just closed on you.
 
Thanks. I messaged them. I mainly getting the card for the discount on tours for my December trip (and Disney story). It seemed silly to pay full price when there was an easy way to get a discount the reward $ was just an extra bonus that I’d rather take advantage of if I can.

This question isn't directed at you but is based off your info. I know if you have a Chase checking account you can get the disney debit card that works for the character spot photo. Does it also work for discounts or do you have to have the actual credit card for the visa offers like discounts and early booking?
 
Thanks. I messaged them. I mainly getting the card for the discount on tours for my December trip (and Disney story). It seemed silly to pay full price when there was an easy way to get a discount the reward $ was just an extra bonus that I’d rather take advantage of if I can.

Right now the no fee card by referral is a $200 statement credit after you spend $500. I just read it off my account. The actual reward dollars come from spending on the credit card and I think you need a certain amount to put them on a rewards card, maybe $20.

@speedyfishy was telling you about the possibility of some other cards which might have larger bonuses for a higher spend. Sounds like you have some time to get more than just $200 of credit since your trip isn't until December.
 
Uhhh, Chase just lowered SO’s credit limit for the CSP/CSR to 4,000 each. It was at 25,000 and 17,000. I thought the minimum for the CSR was 10,000 doesn’t the limit have to be a certain amount or they can’t legally charge the annual fee?

I don't know about the AF details, but indeed the CSR had a 10k minimum: "If approved for an account, your credit access line will be at least $10000."

I guess they didn't say how long your access line will be at least 10k? :confused3

That's very troubling though, to have such a drastic decrease. That mirrors one of the comments @Lain mentioned from r/churning. That's going to be hard to quickly meet the bonus, you'd have to cycle it a bit if you wanted it fast. Unless you wanted to move credit from another personal card to pad it a bit.
 
I didn't know there was a limit for annual fees. Does he need any more than $4K each on these cards right now? In time they will probably go back up.

We've heard from a number of people who've gotten fee cards with smaller credit limits, including someone who got a 1K limit. I think this is just Chase's way of managing their risk. It's a much better result than having your cards just closed on you.

I don’t need the high limit. It’s just it dropped substantially and I’m like 90% sure credit card companies can’t charge an annual fee that’s more than 10% of your credit limit. So I’m concerned they won’t be able to charge the $450 annual fee.

I don't know about the AF details, but indeed the CSR had a 10k minimum: "If approved for an account, your credit access line will be at least $10000."

I guess they didn't say how long your access line will be at least 10k? :confused3

That's very troubling though, to have such a drastic decrease. That mirrors one of the comments @Lain mentioned from r/churning. That's going to be hard to quickly meet the bonus, you'd have to cycle it a bit if you wanted it fast. Unless you wanted to move credit from another personal card to pad it a bit.

I just asked them to lower his Marriott limit of $25,000 since I don’t plan on using that card. I’m fine with the $4,000 limit I’m just worried if a shutdown is coming and if they will still be able to legally charge the annual fee.
 
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