ROAD TRIP ~~ Miami to the Keys

[bcla]

Key West is not a beach destination, and it's too bad your friends didn't venture off Duval Street because there is SO much more to Key West than bars. The history is fascinating, and the people and the beauty and the overall vibe keep us coming back.

There is a beach if that's what you want.

https://www.floridastateparks.org/park/Fort-Taylor
https://www.floridastateparks.org/park-activities/Fort-Taylor#Beach

 

[Cannot_Wait_4Disney]

We've made the drive several times as we have a home in Marathon and always fly into Fort Lauderdale and drive down. When you first go thru Key Largo, don't get discouraged. There are not many great views there. It does open up later in the trip, especially since Irma it seems like more can be seen where mangroves once stood - although I was last there in March so maybe they've grown back more, I'm not sure as we won't be back until next month after DS' baseball season here.
There are many great places to eat along the way - I don't think I've encountered a bad meal.
In Islamorada is a place called Robbie's marina. Here you can feed Tarpon fish. You pay a small amount to go on the docks and buy a bucket of bait fish that you can feed to these huge Tarpon that are there in great numbers. They hang out by the docs waiting to be fed. It is a cool experience!
If you like mini golf, there is one spot, the Boondocks on the way in Sugarloaf I believe and they also have great food and live bands that play there. The Turtle Hospital in Marathon is neat to go thru and see the sea turtles there. Marathon also has a newer Aquarium experience that is nice. As of March you still couldn't walk the old 7 mild bridge as it was undergoing renovations but I'm not sure when that will be finished.
Key West can be a lot of fun. We've done it many different ways. Being childless and enjoying the nightlife to experiencing it with the kids. With the kids we usually watch the sunset celebration and then head back to Marathon to keep them away from the craziness. We enjoy the Hemingway House, Butterfly House, Fort Zachary Taylor and Fort Jefferson in the Dry Tortugas (everyone should do at least once - it was amazing!)
As with most people with the dolphin fish - I about freaked out the first time DH took me fishing and said we were going to catch and eat dolphin! My kids being raised going down there know the difference and think it's a funny story to tell everyone that I didn't know!

Now they're saying 2021 for the old bridge to be finished. It was supposed to be open. I guess it was in worse shape than they originally thought. Do they still have the boat out to Pigeon Key? If so it's a nice trip.

 

[RedSox68]

Thanks to all who replied. Some great information so far.

Any more tips?

 

[sk!mom]

We're back and had a great time. The drive down had some beautiful views but in future, I would likely fly straight to Key West and save myself the drive. I'm NOT a road tripper, though. We stopped at Alabama Jacks and had a great seafood dinner.

We non golfers did the hop on/Hop off bus and it gave us a good overview. The golfers played a round while we did this. They enjoyed the course. We loved Hemingway House and Truman's House. We had great guides at both. The Butterfly Conservatory was fun although very small. Sunset Celebration is really fun and there is a Cuban bar there with the best mojitos I've ever had. DH went back for a second and had the friendly bartender walk him through the process so hopefully they will be recreated at home. We also really enjoyed the tour and tasting at Hemingway's Rum Distillery. You get in free with your trolley ticket. We all actually all got in free because my BIL struck up a conversation at the Blue Heaven bar with one of the owners who gave him his card to get us in free.

As for favorite meals- Blue Heaven was a hit so much so that we went back for seconds on our last morning. The Lobster Benedict was so delicious and save room for their Key Lime Pie. Half Shell Raw Bar has an incredible happy hour that we also enjoyed twice. Be sure and make a reservation at Better Than Sex for a late night dessert. It was a great experience.

If you do enjoy cocktails, the Bar card was so worth the $20 each that we paid. We tried so many specialty drinks- Key Lime Margaritas, martinis, mojitos, etc... We enjoyed live music in so many different places.

The humidity was killer on us "dry heat" Texans so we ended up using Lyft from our house to anyplace farther than maybe 8-10 minutes. We do love to walk. We walked all over San Francisco last summer but the heat and humidity of Key West combined with many destinations being open air with only fans for ventilation had us choosing Lyft. Everything is close though and we were splitting rides so often only $3 or 4 dollars per couple. Our house was in Old Town (so close to things) and we loved the pool but in future I would choose to be as close to Duval as possible.

 

[Squirlz]

Thanks to all who replied. Some great information so far.

Any more tips?

There is a free bus service that will take you from one end of Old Town to the other. And it's air conditioned! https://www.kwtransit.com/m/regions/39/routes/5661/map

 

[RedSox68]

We're back and had a great time. The drive down had some beautiful views but in future, I would likely fly straight to Key West and save myself the drive. I'm NOT a road tripper, though. We stopped at Alabama Jacks and had a great seafood dinner.

We non golfers did the hop on/Hop off bus and it gave us a good overview. The golfers played a round while we did this. They enjoyed the course. We loved Hemingway House and Truman's House. We had great guides at both. The Butterfly Conservatory was fun although very small. Sunset Celebration is really fun and there is a Cuban bar there with the best mojitos I've ever had. DH went back for a second and had the friendly bartender walk him through the process so hopefully they will be recreated at home. We also really enjoyed the tour and tasting at Hemingway's Rum Distillery. You get in free with your trolley ticket. We all actually all got in free because my BIL struck up a conversation at the Blue Heaven bar with one of the owners who gave him his card to get us in free.

As for favorite meals- Blue Heaven was a hit so much so that we went back for seconds on our last morning. The Lobster Benedict was so delicious and save room for their Key Lime Pie. Half Shell Raw Bar has an incredible happy hour that we also enjoyed twice. Be sure and make a reservation at Better Than Sex for a late night dessert. It was a great experience.

If you do enjoy cocktails, the Bar card was so worth the $20 each that we paid. We tried so many specialty drinks- Key Lime Margaritas, martinis, mojitos, etc... We enjoyed live music in so many different places.

The humidity was killer on us "dry heat" Texans so we ended up using Lyft from our house to anyplace farther than maybe 8-10 minutes. We do love to walk. We walked all over San Francisco last summer but the heat and humidity of Key West combined with many destinations being open air with only fans for ventilation had us choosing Lyft. Everything is close though and we were splitting rides so often only $3 or 4 dollars per couple. Our house was in Old Town (so close to things) and we loved the pool but in future I would choose to be as close to Duval as possible.

Thank you so much for posting your trip report. Glad you had safe travels and really appreciate all the information.

 

[longboard55]

enjoyed the trip but would probably fly next time. Driving thru Miami was tricky, get a good GPS

 

[BriarfoxinWA]

DH and I stayed for a week in a little 1 bedroom home off of Duval Street that I rented off VRBO. It was great as we had our own kitchen, it was walking distance to everything on Duval, and it was quiet. We did Truman's house and Hemmingways. Also did the tram/trolley tour - can't remember what it was called but it was pretty interesting. Mostly we just relaxed and wandered around town.

Lots of great places to eat. I love Sloppy Joe's but it's usually crowded and hard to find a table. We also discovered that there were a few "clothing option" bars. Basically first floor had a normal bar, 2nd floor was topless, and 3 floor was ... well I actually didn't stay long enough to find out but it was billed as "nude"...

 

[Owlpost23]

For those who plan on flying in to Key West for their next visit,just be warned that they can't always LAND in Key West.It's a very short runway,and the big planes need really good weather to safely touch down.We went for our 20th anniversary,flying out of ATL because there aren't any directs from Chicago.Weather was bad in KW-they made a few attempts,failed,and ended up flying us into Miami,where we were subsequently bussed down.What a nightmare-rainy,dark, 3+ bus ride to the airport in KW where they dumped us off at the now closed airport.It was a mess.

 

[sk!mom]

For those who plan on flying in to Key West for their next visit,just be warned that they can't always LAND in Key West.It's a very short runway,and the big planes need really good weather to safely touch down.We went for our 20th anniversary,flying out of ATL because there aren't any directs from Chicago.Weather was bad in KW-they made a few attempts,failed,and ended up flying us into Miami,where we were subsequently bussed down.What a nightmare-rainy,dark, 3+ bus ride to the airport in KW where they dumped us off at the now closed airport.It was a mess.

I read this caution often on Trip Advisor and it played into our decision to drive from Fort Lauderdale. We were a group of 6. Four of us live in the same town so we flew and drove together. The other two flew all the way. They were delayed an hour in Fort Lauderdale so not too bad.

 

[RedSox68]

This thread has helped us tremendously in planning. Thanks to all who took time to post tips and suggestions. I did get a great house rental in Key West from someone on my Dry Tortuga thread, so we have contacted them about renting next October. We have decided to start for the Keys from Florida City one morning and go straight to Key West with stops along the way. We will stay in Key West 7 days and do day trips from there back to Key Largo, isadora, etc. We feel this works best for us rather than moving every 2nd or third day. We do plan to do the Dry Tortuga excursion, too. We are going to try to book early October to stay away from the Mardi Gras type party post-cruise, and maybe just do Everglades National Park post-cruise and things in the surrounding areas.

Anyone ever stay in Florida City? I see on the map there is a Cracker Barrel there, too (win-win).

 

[RedSox68]

Hi, all -- from the recommendation of a fellow poster on another thread, we were able to book this great cottage for one week in Key West. We're going to use it as a home base. https://www.floridarentals.com/867/...ls&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=ownerInquiry

One location down, now I just need to find hotels/rentals around Miami or Fort Lauderdale and for the other 15 days on the road!

 

[LovesTimone]

Living here in Fl. The keys are not like they show on the TV or when I was a kid and teenager... On the drive down hotels, resorts, strip mall line the roads, the seven mile bridge is kinda cool. key West is really nothing but Duval street, lined with bars, t-shirt stores, tourist traps stores, more bars, and restaurants. There is only one beach that really sandy, Smathers B beach, I think that its the biggest one, open to the public, you will have to pay for parking. I think that there is a beach you can pay to access not sure of the cost somewhere in the 25 to 40 dollar per person range. The other beaches are a lot of crushed coral, shells and rocks mixed in with the sand. The beaches are not big area, and it does get crowded. If you venture off Duval... there are some nicer restaurants, do be careful, use you good judgement when out, drinking.


I will say that the sunset in the keys is absolutely just amazing. There is the celebration party... But for this Florida girl I like to watch it without all that.

 

[RedSox68]

Living here in Fl. The keys are not like they show on the TV or when I was a kid and teenager... On the drive down hotels, resorts, strip mall line the roads, the seven mile bridge is kinda cool. key West is really nothing but Duval street, lined with bars, t-shirt stores, tourist traps stores, more bars, and restaurants. There is only one beach that really sandy, Smathers B beach, I think that its the biggest one, open to the public, you will have to pay for parking. I think that there is a beach you can pay to access not sure of the cost somewhere in the 25 to 40 dollar per person range. The other beaches are a lot of crushed coral, shells and rocks mixed in with the sand. The beaches are not big area, and it does get crowded. If you venture off Duval... there are some nicer restaurants, do be careful, use you good judgement when out, drinking.


I will say that the sunset in the keys is absolutely just amazing. There is the celebration party... But for this Florida girl I like to watch it without all that.

We're not going for the beaches or the drinking -- we're going for the historical aspects, and a day trip to Dry Tortuga. We have no high expectations and know the road is not scenic or beautiful in many areas from previous posters. I'm glad we know all this before we go. Funny thing is, we leave Key West, stay around Miami for a week and then get on the cruise -- whose first port is Key West!

Any restaurant recommendations would be most appreciated (and for breakfast, too). We already have Sloppy Joe's on our list.

 

[Squirlz]

We're not going for the beaches or the drinking -- we're going for the historical aspects, and a day trip to Dry Tortuga. We have no high expectations and know the road is not scenic or beautiful in many areas from previous posters. I'm glad we know all this before we go. Funny thing is, we leave Key West, stay around Miami for a week and then get on the cruise -- whose first port is Key West!

Any restaurant recommendations would be most appreciated (and for breakfast, too). We already have Sloppy Joe's on our list.

Key West is SO much more than just Duval Street. You'll discover that soon enough. I feel sorry for anyone who doesn't venture off the main drag, they miss so much.

There is a small man made beach at the end of Simonton. Lagerheads serves drinks and food and rents chairs. Nice spot to relax and get in the water.

We have never been in Sloppy Joes, I'll leave them for the cruise ship hoards. For breakfast we like Pepe's (get there before noon for breakfast), Harpoon Harry's (cash only), Cuban Coffee Queen (the one across the parking lot from Pepe's) and for something a bit more upscale a new place called Breakfast Club Too. These pics are from BC2 a couple weeks ago:




We also tried Two Friends one morning when a Lobster Benedict was on the menu. Huge pieces of fresh lobster and a perfect bearnaise sauce:

 

[RedSox68]

Key West is SO much more than just Duval Street. You'll discover that soon enough. I feel sorry for anyone who doesn't venture off the main drag, they miss so much.

There is a small man made beach at the end of Simonton. Lagerheads serves drinks and food and rents chairs. Nice spot to relax and get in the water.

We have never been in Sloppy Joes, I'll leave them for the cruise ship hoards. For breakfast we like Pepe's (get there before noon for breakfast), Harpoon Harry's (cash only), Cuban Coffee Queen (the one across the parking lot from Pepe's) and for something a bit more upscale a new place called Breakfast Club Too. These pics are from BC2 a couple weeks ago:

View attachment 357023 View attachment 357024


We also tried Two Friends one morning when a Lobster Benedict was on the menu. Huge pieces of fresh lobster and a perfect bearnaise sauce:

View attachment 357025

Awesome info! Gotta ask -- what are those drinks called and what's in them?

 

[Squirlz]

We also tried a new thing, Historic Harbor Tour. The boat operates out of the Bight by Turtle Kraals. A 1 1/2 hour tour that is a non-stop history lesson. We have done the trolleys, the Conch Train and all the museums but we learned evenmore on this trip. Price is $39 plus tip. They also do a Sunset Cruise that gets good reviews.

 

[Squirlz]

Awesome info! Gotta ask -- what are those drinks called and what's in them?

They're Bloody Marys. One is a Bacon Bloody and the other is Asian...very spicy! They have 10 or 12 varieties.

 

[JaxDad]

For breakfast in Key West, I recommend Glazed Donuts. Try them all, with some Cuban coffee of course.

For dinner, I tend to favor Cuban or seafood. El Siboney's has great Cuban food. The food at El Meson de Pepe is not quite as good, but the atmosphere is awesome. They have live music, and are directly adjacent to Mallory Square. For seafood (and beer), Turtle Kraals is my sentimental favorite, but there are lots of choices, so ask around.

We stopped at Herbie's in Marathon on the way down. The food was very good, and they had an excellent beer selection. You might also try the No Name Pub for pizza and beer (and to staple a dollar on the wall with the thousands of others), plus you will likely see Key Deer on the way there. You should also visit the Florida Keys Wild Bird Rehabilitation Center and Robbie's Marina on the way down. Worldwide Sportsman is also pretty cool. It is basically a really nice Bass Pro Shop, but it has a sister boat of Hemingway's Pilar, plus some nice dining options.

I have stayed in Florida City, but it has been a long time. While there, be sure to visit the Robert is Here fruit stand.

You will love Fort Jefferson and the Dry Tortugas. I've stayed out there on extended visits a couple times with my Air Force Reserve construction unit, doing maintenance. It was cool flying out in an open-sided Blackhawk!

ETA: I would recommend renting bikes on Key West (or maybe your rental property comes with bikes). We used Eaton Bikes, and they were excellent.

 

[RedSox68]

They're Bloody Marys. One is a Bacon Bloody and the other is Asian...very spicy! They have 10 or 12 varieties.

That lobster benedict is on the top of my list!!

For breakfast in Key West, I recommend Glazed Donuts. Try them all, with some Cuban coffee of course.

For dinner, I tend to favor Cuban or seafood. El Siboney's has great Cuban food. The food at El Meson de Pepe is not quite as good, but the atmosphere is awesome. They have live music, and are directly adjacent to Mallory Square. For seafood (and beer), Turtle Kraals is my sentimental favorite, but there are lots of choices, so ask around.

We stopped at Herbie's in Marathon on the way down. The food was very good, and they had an excellent beer selection. You might also try the No Name Pub for pizza and beer (and to staple a dollar on the wall with the thousands of others), plus you will likely see Key Deer on the way there. You should also visit the Florida Keys Wild Bird Rehabilitation Center and Robbie's Marina on the way down. Worldwide Sportsman is also pretty cool. It is basically a really nice Bass Pro Shop, but it has a sister boat of Hemingway's Pilar, plus some nice dining options.

I have stayed in Florida City, but it has been a long time. While there, be sure to visit the Robert is Here fruit stand.

You will love Fort Jefferson and the Dry Tortugas. I've stayed out there on extended visits a couple times with my Air Force Reserve construction unit, doing maintenance. It was cool flying out in an open-sided Blackhawk!

ETA: I would recommend renting bikes on Key West (or maybe your rental property comes with bikes). We used Eaton Bikes, and they were excellent.

Again, more great tips. Thank you for taking the time to post them.

Having read some of the reports about how long it takes to drive from Miami to the Keys, I think we're going to try to make it to a place to overnight in either Homestead or Key Largo so we can start the day closer to the beginning of the Keys and avoid the City traffic. Does that make sense?