To Infinity and Beyond - Becoming a Better DopeyBadger (Comments Welcome)

[DopeyBadger]

Just catching up on the recaps. Congratulations on what sounds like a really tough race!

Thanks!

 

[DopeyBadger]

Question for my bike pros (@FFigawi and @Keels) - I'm currently in the process of pricing out several options. New, used, etc. I saw that clever training does a semi-annual 20% off one item sale which looks like it may occur coming up at the beginning of November (so some new trainers will be reduced in price). Been watching the PBJ site as well. So I'm trying to get my ducks in a row soon to price out all the options. I'm gravitating towards a wheel-off design, but saw the Kickr Core suggest a 8/9/10/11 cassette design. It also can be compatible with a 700c wheel size and 135mm QR bike (both my type).



The question. My bike appears to have a 7 speed cassette and 3 speed crank. The entire setup seems to revolve around a 7 speed and 3 speed (like the shifters). Is there a way to figure out if I can fit a 10 speed on my bike when it's on the Kickr Core? I asked Wahoo, but their response was that if I have a 7 speed bike only a 7 speed cassette would fit. And to take it to a local bike shop. See below (but I'm assuming I didn't explain myself well). But wouldn't it be possible to change the whole groupset to make it a 10 speed (new to me shifters, derailleurs, crank, cassette, chain)? I guess I'm just more concerned whether the 135mm QR frame allows a 10 speed on it when solely mounted on the Wahoo Kickr (or really any direct drive really). I could always ask my uncle in law to help me change out the components because he rides regularly. I guess additionally is there any worth to me increasing my bike from a 7 speed to 10 speed if I never intend to ride it outside (other than to fit a direct drive)? Would it make much of a difference on a direct drive trainer?

I ask because it might be necessary to include the direct drive with the increased cost of a groupset in the estimate as well (although this email seems to suggest a 7 speed cassette could work).

Me - I'm interested in purchasing a new Kickr Core, but don't know a ton about bikes (mostly a runner looking to add in some biking now as well). I've got a bike that has a 700c rear wheel and 135mm quick release which seems to match the compatibility. However, my bike currently has a 7 speed system. My goal is to use this bike for only indoor purposes. Is there a way to figure out what is the maximum cassette size I can get with my bike (700c and 135mm QR) and your Kickr Core? Would there be enough space for an 11 speed cassette, or is it limited to 8 or something else? Thanks for your time and help!

Wahoo - Thank you for contacting Wahoo Fitness. To create compatibility between your bike and the KICKR Core, you will need to purchase a 7-speed cassette and mount it on the KICKR Core. As your bike is a 7-speed this would be the only cassette you could use on the KICKR and maintain compatibility would be another 7 speed cassette. You cannot use 7-speed with 8/9/10/11 speed cassettes. If you have never installed or replaced a cassette before, we do recommend taking the KICKR to your local bikes shop, as you will need some spacers, special tools, etc, to accomplish this.

https://support.wahoofitness.com/hc/en-us/articles/204281854-Replacing-the-Cassette

 

[CheapRunnerMike]

My advice, keeping in mind how cheap I am, is to get a new bike. By the time you invest in all of the new components required to change from a 7-speed to 10/11 you may as well just get a new bike on the lower end of the spectrum and then you'll even be able to go outside now and then if you want. You don't need anything fancy if your primary purpose is sticking it on a trainer.

 

[Keels]

Not looking directly at your bike, I would say it's probably possible - but would likely involve buying a new cassette, chain (10s are thinner than 7s), and probably a new rear wheel, among other items and the work to make the change. At that point, you're well into the price of a new bike so I would just buy a new bike ...

LOL - jinx. I owe @CheapRunnerMike a Coke.

 

[DopeyBadger]

My advice, keeping in mind how cheap I am, is to get a new bike. By the time you invest in all of the new components required to change from a 7-speed to 10/11 you may as well just get a new bike on the lower end of the spectrum and then you'll even be able to go outside now and then if you want. You don't need anything fancy if your primary purpose is sticking it on a trainer.

Not looking directly at your bike, I would say it's probably possible - but would likely involve buying a new cassette, chain (10s are thinner than 7s), and probably a new rear wheel, among other items and the work to make the change. At that point, you're well into the price of a new bike so I would just buy a new bike ...

LOL - jinx. I owe @CheapRunnerMike a Coke.

Thanks guys.

I priced out a new Shimano Tiagra groupset (and that's assuming I couldn't haggle a deal with my uncle in law who I'll see this weekend who owns like 6-7 quality bikes, so maybe a bike or groupset from him if he's looking to upgrade) to be about $350-375. You think I can find a new 10 speed bike for roughly the same price? I guess add in road handlebars which I priced out at $53 but kind of separate from upgrading the groupset. What would be a good estimate on what I should pay for a new to me bike given what I'm looking to use it for?

 

[Keels]

Thanks guys.

I priced out a new Shimano Tiagra groupset (and that's assuming I couldn't haggle a deal with my uncle in law who I'll see this weekend who owns like 6-7 quality bikes, so maybe a bike or groupset from him if he's looking to upgrade) to be about $350-375. You think I can find a new 10 speed bike for roughly the same price? I guess add in road handlebars which I priced out at $53 but kind of separate from upgrading the groupset. What would be a good estimate on what I should pay for a new to me bike given what I'm looking to use it for?

Do you know what size frame you are?
Is your current bike a road bike? My personal feeling is you really don't want to fuss with the geometry of adding road handlebars or even bullhorns to an upright bike because that's just begging for an aching back and an injury.

 

[DopeyBadger]

This seems like a nice bike, but how would I know if it fit me before I bought it?

$275
Irving, TX
Great condition low miles Dawes lightning 56c Kinesis Butted Aluminum frame with Carbon fork , Shimano 105 10 speed group set , Fsa Gossamer triple crank set , fully tuned with new chain , bar tape and Saddle , bikes direct sells this model for 699.00

With a bike, am I really looking for something more local then because of shipping, or the possibility of going out and giving it a test ride or something?

 

[DopeyBadger]

Do you know what size frame you are?
Is your current bike a road bike? My personal feeling is you really don't want to fuss with the geometry of adding bullhorns to an upright bike because that's just begging for an aching back and an injury.

No idea what size I am. Awhile back I did a self assessment and this bike I'm on came the closest to matching the specs. I'm guessing the current bike is a Mountain Bike. I think it's a 1992 Schwinn CrissCross (purple). Definitely not looking for injuries! Ack!

 

[Keels]

No idea what size I am. Awhile back I did a self assessment and this bike I'm on came the closest to matching the specs. I'm guessing the current bike is a Mountain Bike. I think it's a 1992 Schwinn CrissCross (purple). Definitely not looking for injuries! Ack!

Does it have a frame size on it anywhere (S, M, L works - but a numeric value is way better)?

I would also add in bike shoes with brackets and clips and clipped-in pedals to any potential cost you might be looking at with a new trainer setup, or as a cheaper (but not exactly the same option) pedals with cages on them.

 

[DopeyBadger]

Does it have a frame size on it anywhere (S, M, L works - but a numeric value is way better)?

I would also add in bike shoes with brackets and clips and clipped-in pedals to any potential cost you might be looking at with a new trainer setup, or as a cheaper (but not exactly the same option) pedals with cages on them.

Unfortunately no luck in finding any identifying marks on it. Is there something I could measure that would be a giveaway?

I think I found some cages earlier as a cheap option. I guess if I bought a used bike with clip pedals then I'd add in clip shoes which seemed like $80-100ish?

 

[Keels]

I think I found some cages earlier as a cheap option. I guess if I bought a used bike with clip pedals then I'd add in clip shoes which seemed like $80-100ish?

Yup - even cheaper if you watch for used ones or sales.

Here's a sizing chart for Specialized's entry-level road bike - you can kind of compare geometric measurements to get a better idea of your size:



Since you're just using it as a trainer bike, I would find what size you are and find a decent used road bike - I've seen nice ones going between $250-500 lately on PB&J and Bike, Borrow and Steal. Then, just take it to a local bike shop to have it properly fitted and you're all set.

 

[DopeyBadger]

Current bike:

Crank Length - 175mm
Stem length - 125mm (big angle though)
Top Tube - 585mm
Wheelbase - 1055mm
Frame Stack - 540 or 550mm
Frame Reach - 410mm
Chainstay length - 435mm

Not sure how much any of this helps. Seems to be all over the place.

 

[Keels]

I’m 5’8” and am a 54, and most of the guys in my cycle group are between 6’ and 6’2” and are 56s. I would guess you’re either a 56 or a 58. A bike shop would be able to help you for sure ... it really mostly depends on leg length.

 

[DopeyBadger]

Something like these?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/192957014878650
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/326347431274401
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/322895428517357
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/243861019631265

 

[Keels]

The first one may be too much bike for what you want (and it's really pretty old compared to newer ones with better technology and less miles), and I’d toss the last one out because I think you’re likely a Large frame in Giant and a compact medium is going to be too small.

That Raleigh bike is a pretty good deal if it fits! And that second one is a pretty great deal too if those shoes are your size, because it comes with a lot of extras.

 

[avondale]

It’s so crazy that you posted this because I was JUST thinking about you and how the strength plan was going - now that I’m fully cleared for all activity, I was working on my weekly plans for the coming weeks (including that strength plan from my CC coach friend) and I remembered you and I chatting about it.

I was out of town and offline this weekend... I liked the strength routine in principle, but I couldn't commit the time during my college teaching semester. I may think about it again next summer. I also need a solution for barbells for the few moves that need them. I have a barbell, but no rack. (This may be an investment in general that would be worthwhile - suggestions for something simple? But I think you go to a gym.) Also, I typically workout in the morning before DH wakes up, and the plates on the barbell clank - he hears them on the second floor from the basement!

 

[FFigawi]

Chiming in late......you've gotten great advice from @Keels and @CheapRunnerMike to skip trying to force fit your 7-speed bike and upgrade to a bike with a 10- or 11-speed cassette. The ideal thing for you to do is get a professional bike fit with someone who isn't trying to sell you a specific bike. The fitter will give you, at the end of the fitting, your numbers for seat tube, stack, reach, and many others. You can then use this box to determine which frames will work for you. It'll be the best money you spend on cycling, even better than good bibs, clipless pedals, or decent shoes.

 

[DopeyBadger]

And how about the Windsor one?

How would I know if it fits? Looks like my inside leg length is reasonable (34in) compared to a 56cm Raleigh. https://www.onyerbike.com/what-size-do-you-need/

How would this generally work? I contact them and ask if still available? Then setup a time to meet and see if it fits?

Chiming in late......you've gotten great advice from @Keels and @CheapRunnerMike to skip trying to force fit your 7-speed bike and upgrade to a bike with a 10- or 11-speed cassette. The ideal thing for you to do is get a professional bike fit with someone who isn't trying to sell you a specific bike. The fitter will give you, at the end of the fitting, your numbers for seat tube, stack, reach, and many others. You can then use this box to determine which frames will work for you. It'll be the best money you spend on cycling, even better than good bibs, clipless pedals, or decent shoes.

Like this, but before going out and finding a bike?

https://www.eriksbikeshop.com/trufit-new-bike-sizing.aspx
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/precision_fit/

 

[Keels]

Chiming in late......you've gotten great advice from @Keels and @CheapRunnerMike to skip trying to force fit your 7-speed bike and upgrade to a bike with a 10- or 11-speed cassette. The ideal thing for you to do is get a professional bike fit with someone who isn't trying to sell you a specific bike. The fitter will give you, at the end of the fitting, your numbers for seat tube, stack, reach, and many others. You can then use this box to determine which frames will work for you. It'll be the best money you spend on cycling, even better than good bibs, clipless pedals, or decent shoes.

Fit is DEFINITELY important - the most important thing, actually. I've never been "pre-fit" for a bike the way @FFigawi described, but I did test ride a bunch of roadies and decided which one I liked the best, and then found both of my bikes slightly used in the frame size that I needed. But every bike I own (other than my Townie), I've taken to my local bike shop and had it professionally adjusted to fit me - my bike shop in FW does fitting for free with a tune-up service for a bike not purchased from the shop, so it's nice to wheel it out knowing it's perfectly fit to me and that everything is clean and in good working shape.

For you, though, the second most important thing (and where you'll see the most return in your workouts) is going to be pedals and shoes. It's going to take a little bit for your muscle set to get used to resistance workouts that the Smart Trainer will put you through, so being clipped in and able to spin out your legs effortlessly is nice active recovery during a trainer workout. Can't do that with flat pedals, and you can't get the full engagement of your feet/legs to the pedals/crank with cages.

 

[Keels]

And how about the Windsor one?

Is that the silver one? It seems like a good deal to me just based on all the components that seem to be included (especially if you're anywhere close to a size 11.5 shoe)

How would this generally work? I contact them and ask if still available? Then setup a time to meet and see if it fits?

Yup! Most sellers will let you ride it around to see how comfortable you feel on it! Make sure it feels "big enough" - not like your knees are going to knock you out or anything. It's going to be a different feel to ride down in aero position, but you get used to it pretty quickly. The first time you do a long trainer ride on a road bike, it's definitely gonna feel like you've done a million crunches.