Emerald Isle Trip (9/18 - 9/25) Report

tgsmithsr

Earning My Ears
Joined
May 25, 2008
We just got back from the ABD Emerald Isle tour. The day before we left, my wife posted a question about laundry facilities in the hotels, and there were a couple of requests for a trip report from responders. So, in the interests of full disclosure, here it is. First, to answer the question about laundry facilities, none of the hotels has any, so unless you’re prepared to pay the valet service to do laundry for you, you’d better pack enough for at least a week.

We flew out of Harrisburg, PA, at 6:30 the evening of Wednesday, September 17, for an overnight flight to Dublin via Philly. I saw somewhere else on the board where someone was asking about prices for these; I can’t speak for anyone else, but we paid just over $800 each on US Airways, which seems like a good price to me. Of course, we booked back in February, just as soon as we knew we were going, because from the standpoint of price, earlier is better. Also, we were flush with DVC points, so we ponied up enough points each to make the trip. Again, earlier reservations were better, because the regular rate was, I believe, about 33 points per person higher. Also, with the dollar dropping all summer, 2009 rates have gone up to 428 for early booking and 471 for regular, so you’ll definitely want to book early if you’re using DVC points, and even if you’re paying, early booking is, I believe, cheaper.

Also, we found the best flights for us but had Disney book them so we could have all our vacation insurance through them. Also when you’re first planning the trip, you might want to consider booking flights arriving 1 day before and staying 1 day after. Several of our tour mates did that, and it seemed to work out well, well enough that we wish we had done it, too. You should still be able to get with Disney prices, and they will still pick up and drive you to the airport.

Anyway, we landed in Dublin just after 8:00 and, after a 45-minute processing queue through immigration and customs, we met one of our tour guides, Sarah, with two other couples and our driver, who drove us to the Westin Dublin. (This was the last tour of the year, which is designated as no children, so there were none.) Our room wasn’t guaranteed to be available until 2:00 that afternoon, so although we were hoping it would be ready for us to get cleaned up, it wasn’t. There, we met our other tour guide, Courtney. More about them later, but Sarah and Courtney were terrific guides. I haven’t met any of the other guides, and I’m sure that, since this is a Disney trip, they’re all first-rate, but if you can get Courtney and Sarah, you’d be doing yourself a big favor. They really made the trip a great one for all of us.

Since we hadn’t eaten much on the flight, we ate at Gallagher’s Boxty House on Fleet Street, about 2 blocks from the hotel. Thanks to Angie Watt for that recommendation; we read Angie’s Ireland trip report post from a couple of months ago and found it very useful. A boxty is an Irish pancake made with potatoes, and is used to wrap a variety of food Irish-style. In our case, we both got the small traditional Irish breakfasts, because it was, after all, 11:00 Dublin time and 6:00 our time on Thursday morning. The traditional Irish breakfast consists of fried eggs on a boxty, sausage, Irish bacon which is much more like strips of Virginia ham (salty), and toast, and it ran us about 22 euros, which included coffee at about 2.50 euros each and a 10% tip. The large traditional at Gallagher’s would have also included black and white pudding, which are mixed sausage products that reminded me somewhat of the scrapple we get here in central PA. We saw a lot of traditional Irish breakfast items at each of the hotel buffets we ate at, so it pays to get familiar with them. Most of the buffets also featured creamy oatmeal (“porridge”) and horrible coffee. At least we thought the coffee was horrible; just add lots of cream and sugar. We also stopped at the ATM right outside the Westin to get euros for the items we couldn’t or didn’t want to charge.

As tired as we were, having gotten only a couple of hours sleep on the flight to Dublin, we hung in there until the welcoming dinner at 6:00. We walked around Dublin and saw the sights, which was easy to do due to the central location of the Westin. The weather was almost perfect, as it was throughout the week. Someone told me the weather in Ireland is rainy, but you wouldn’t be able to prove it based on what we saw. We saw the Bloody Sunday Post Office where the 1916 revolution started and the monuments surrounding it on O’Connell Drive, and then walked back towards the Temple Bar pub district and continued on to Christ Church Cathedral. Surprisingly, the cathedral, which is Church of Ireland (Anglican) and not Catholic, was charging 6 euros to tour the building, so we passed on that. St. Patrick’s Cathedral, also Church of Ireland, was being renovated and had scaffolding around the outside, so we passed on that also and walked back to the hotel. We checked out the shops along the way, particularly Carroll’s, which has probably the most reasonable prices on tourist gifts in Dublin, but we kept in mind the advice of the Irish lad who drove us from the airport to the Westin: save your shopping for the provinces, because they have better prices than the ones in Dublin. More on that later. If anyone is interested in pictures, by the way, you can find them at:

[Sorry, tried to post this and was told by the sysadmin I can't post links unless I have at least 10 posts. I'll figure out how to get it in there. Stand by.]

The welcoming dinner at the Westin was probably the best meal we had on the trip. I particularly liked the lamb, which was served in some kind of wine and spice sauce, and the cheesecake, which was much lighter and sweeter than the American variety. Courtney and Sarah had all sorts of get-acquainted games for us to play, which were probably part of the Disney tour template, but they had a way of making even the most mundane activities (such as this one) fun where they could have been, well, annoying. Anyway, I have to admit that I didn’t learn a lot of our fellow tourists’ names until the last couple of days. Anyway, having sucked it up and stayed awake until bed time, we crashed early to get on Ireland time.
 
Day 2 started, fully on Ireland time, at the Westin breakfast buffet, which was excellent and featured many of the traditional Irish dishes I mentioned above. After a leisurely breakfast, we set out to tour Dublin, which included the city’s Dublinia museum, Dublin Castle, and the Guinness brewery museum. It was a great day for museum lovers, but I think we all had a good time, and the lunch buffet at Guinness was very good. Actually, the best part was the free pints of Guinness. Afternoon was an optional tour of the Book of Kells Museum at Trinity College, which is literally across the street from the hotel. Almost everyone on the tour opted to take the tour, which I thought was well worth the time. We spent the evening having dinner at O’Neill’s pub – again thanks to Angie Watt for the suggestion – and walking around shopping for small items. At O’Neill’s, I had the fish and chips (one huge cod filet on top of a plate full of fries) for about 13 euros, and my wife had Irish beef stew (in a bowl topped with mashed potatoes) for about 10 euros. Both were excellent, particularly for pub food. We bought some small items at Carroll’s (4 t-shirts on sale for 22 euros) after having price checked all the local shops (including Guinness items – surprisingly, Carroll’s prices were no more, and sometimes less, than the Guinness gift shop at the brewery museum) and checked the Blarney Woolen Mills shop, but the latter closed at 6:00, so we missed shopping there. That turned out to be O.K., as I’ll detail in day 3.
 
Day 3 also started with the Westin breakfast buffet, but we had less time to enjoy it this morning as our slave-driving tour guides made us leave for Killarney at 8:30. First stop was for a break in Abbeyleix, about an hour up the road, and then in Cashel for a tour of the Rock of Cashel about another hour up the road. The ruins of the cathedral there were very interesting, and the view of the countryside was spectacular. This set the pattern for the tour after leaving Dublin, in fact, as we saw the ruins of many medieval castles (and a few that weren’t ruined) surrounded by fantastically beautiful scenery, made more so by the perfect weather we enjoyed all week. We had lunch at Grant’s pub, which is attached to the Kearney Castle Hotel, which is itself the ruins of an old castle (see the picture at the link above.) Since we were doing a lot of buffet and other pork-out type eating, we just decided to have cheese sandwiches at 4 euros. I’m not sure what else might have been available in Cashel, since we didn’t look very hard, but if you ever take this tour and experience the non-stop eating, you’ll better understand what I’m talking about. In fact, we settled for just sandwiches at pubs several more times when eating on our own. After another 2 hours in the bus, we arrived in Killarney. Our hotel, the Killarney Plaza, was situated across the street from Killarney National Park. We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring downtown Killarney, including the outlet mall a couple of blocks from the hotel, where it turned out there is a Blarney Woolen Mills outlet. We found sweaters and blankets for good prices there – better than any other shop we visited – so we purchased 3 merino sweaters and a merino blanket festooned with shamrocks – total damage with markdowns and coupons was about 120 euros. (Be sure to get your 10% off coupon for the outlet center when you arrive at the Plaza.) We checked prices elsewhere and no one else could match. The tour-sponsored dinner that evening was at the hotel restaurant, Menton’s, which had a menu with a choice of 4 appetizers, 4 entrees, and 3 desserts. My wife and I had the chicken, which was excellent, but at our table of 8 there was at least one taker for each of the other entrees, and everyone said there’s was excellent.
 
Day 4 featured a Jaunting Car ride of about 20 minutes to the Muckross House in Killarney National Park. Muckross was interesting, but the highlight was the bike ride up to Torc Falls. The scenery in the park is quite a sight, and seen from just above the falls it’s even more spectacular. Actually, I hiked all the way to the top of the falls without realizing how long I was gone, and by the time I got back down, the group had gone back to Muckross. Courtney was nice enough to wait for me at the falls, so we raced back to turn the bikes in and I made it to lunch on time. We both had shepherd’s pie, and it was excellent. I toured the Muckross gardens afterwards, which are worth seeing if you like to garden, and the wife hung out in the shop. The bus left for Ross Castle, which was one of the many ruins we took in on the tour that were left by Oliver Cromwell during his campaign to subdue the Irish and English Anglicans in the mid-17th century. We had a lot of fun there, too, and all in all the day provided lots of photo ops. After getting back to the hotel for free time, we walked around Killarney again and down to St. Mary’s Cathedral, which was beautiful, as are all cathedrals, but wasn’t either as big or as old as we thought it would be. We finished the evening with dinner at Flesk’s, where I had a 6 oz. sirloin (no, it wasn’t weighted metrically, for some reason) and the wife had chicken Kiev. I liked my meal, which was comparable to anything you’d get in the states at someplace like, say, Texas Roadhouse, but at 16 euros it was about twice the price. My wife liked the Chicken Kiev, but she was a bit put off by the fact that it came by itself, with nothing else on the plate. Her side order of fries came in a dish with my side order of fries, which, apparently, left nothing else for the plate. At 15 euros, it was also a bit pricey, but get used to it. Flesk’s was about the cheapest sit-down restaurant in town. Several of our party went to Laurel’s, which is a bit more expensive but also a bit more substantial (no lone chicken breasts, for example.) We avoided Salvador’s based on Angie’s review, but several of our party also went there, and they liked what they had, and they said they would recommend it. Unfortunately, the most popular restaurant in Killarney, Bricin’s, is closed on Sunday and Monday, so that if you take the tour that starts on Thursday, you won’t be able to eat there, since the two free nights there fall on those days. We stopped by there to check out the menu, and it looked excellent, so we were disappointed to miss it. Also, we continued to eat the breakfast buffets provided by the hotel. All were excellent, featuring many of the traditional Irish dishes mentioned above.
 


For day 5, we started back in Killarney National Park for an “optional” hike in the park. A little over half the group opted to come on this, and I thought it was well worth it. My wife, however, passed on it and rested. (The tour can be intense at times, and there isn’t always much downtime, so others no doubt made the same decision.) I mentioned earlier that the hotel is across the street from the park, and for the hike all we had to do was march a couple of blocks down the street to the nearest gate and walk in. The hike took us up to Knockreer House, which is an ecological research facility with a fantastic view of the park. You can actually see Ross Castle from it. We then hiked back around to Killarney House, where Queen Victoria stayed for part of her visit in 1861, and on back to the hotel. The hike took, all told, just under an hour, but I thought it was interesting enough that I hiked back into the park again after the “official” day 5 events were finished. We left at 10:00 for the eco-cruise off Kenmare, which was one of the highlights of the tour for me. We spent about an hour cruising up and down the inlet between the Beara and Iveragh peninsulas, and while the scenery in Ireland was always fantastic (it’s one of the big reasons you’d take this tour in the first place), the landscape combined with the ocean views is truly spectacular. You can also see the inevitable old castle, plus a new one, plus seals sunning on the rocks, but just the trees, mountains, and ocean are enough by themselves to take you’re breath away. Don’t forget to bring a jacket for the cruise, even if the weather is nice. It’s pretty cold out on the water. Back in Kenmare, our guides took us to see the stone circles, which are kind of an Irish version of Stonehenge (and archaeologists think they may be related somehow) although not nearly as spectacular, Then, they continued to do their terrific job by recommending Jam’s, an Irish deli, for lunch. For 15 euros, we had a great lunch: an Irish bacon and sausage panini for me, chicken salad Irish-style in a small bread bowl for my wife, and we shared an éclair for dessert. After lunch, we found some good shopping in Kenmare as well. In the city center (which is actually just the intersection of the town’s two main streets) we found two woolen shops – Kerry Woolen Mills and Quill’s Woolen Market – with good prices on various items. You’ll want to visit both if your looking for woolens, and hopefully you’ll have visited the Blarney store at the outlet mall also for comparison with their prices. We took the scenic route via the Ring of Kerry, stopping at Lady’s View. While the views from here were really nice, they actually pale in comparison to some of the other scenery we saw. I was a little disappointed, since the Ring was recommended to me by people who have been to Ireland before, but it really was very nice. As I mentioned above, back at the hotel with some time on my hands I elected to hike back into the park for a couple of hours or so. I hiked past the turnoff to the Knockreer house and found, once again, amazing views where the trail runs along a ridge on the other side of the lake from the Muckross House. At 5:00 I went back to the hotel for a wine and cheese tasting party and an Irish Dance recital given by four of the local dance students. We all had a really good time at this, too. For dinner, we went to Mac’s, a restaurant recommended by the tour guides, and it was both tasty and reasonably priced. My wife and I had the shepherd’s pie, which was actually better that the dish we had the previous day at Muckross House cafeteria, and at 13 euros apiece, it was, as I said, reasonably priced.
 
We got a break on our departure time for day 6 when it was slipped from 8:30 to 9:00. Upon leaving we headed for Inch Beach, which was very scenic and, I’m told, has water warm enough for swimming. I’m not sure I really believe that, but my wife took her shoes off and waded in the water and said she thought it really was warm enough to swim in. I have a feeling, though, if she’d have donned a bathing suit and stuck her whole body in, she’d have changed her mind. Anyway, I had no intention of finding out. We also had some excellent hot chocolate before leaving for Adare. In Adare, we had lunch at the Arches restaurant, which is really not much more that a sandwich shop, but that was fine with us since, as I mentioned above, one of the tour’s main focuses is food. We both had tomato and cheese sandwiches and split an order of fries for 13 euros. After lunch, we walked about a half mile to an old dairy co-op building aptly named the Creamery. The Creamery, however, no longer specializes in dairy products but in holiday paraphernalia, primarily Christmas, but it does have a Halloween section. It was amusing to me to see a shop like this, which is fairly common in this country, in Ireland, but there it was. After leaving Adare, it was a couple of more hours to get to our next hotel, Dromoland (Dro-mo’-land) Castle. This is simply an amazing hotel, certainly one of the two or three nicest I’ve ever stayed in, and I’ve stayed in some nice ones over the years. The rooms were just amazing, and I believe one could easily spend a week here, with golf, tennis, horseback riding, archery, skeet, and just simply walking the grounds and gardens to keep you occupied. Also, they had the best breakfast buffet, with, again, many items from the traditional Irish breakfast, but here they added somewhat of a gourmet touch to them. We had dinner that night at Bunratty Castle’s medieval feast, which is actually pretty tame compared to some of the medieval feasts I’ve been to here in the states. I guess I teased Sarah a bit too much about her accent during the week, because she got her revenge on me by forcing me to play one of the three regional kings (Ulster) and sit at the head table. Actually, though, it wasn’t too bad. I had a good view of the stage where the entertainment took place, which was decent, and I used my kingly authority to demand refills on my mead cup – lots of refills. I slept well that night.
 
Boo hoo hoo! Last full day in Ireland, day 7. They saved the best scenery for last, though – the Cliffs of Moher. You’re welcome to view our photos of them, but the photos don’t do them justice. Bring your jacket for this one, too. It’s quite windy and chilly up on the cliffs. I hated to leave, but we had a beautiful drive up the Irish coast to Galway Bay and Monk’s seafood restaurant, where most of us had the crab salad open-faced sandwich, which was excellent. Sarah let me try a small bite of her open-faced shrimp salad sandwich too, and I can also heartily recommend that as well. In fact, the crab salad had a lot of shell in it, which I had to keep spitting out, so the shrimp might have been a better choice. For dessert we all had their delicious brownies – thanks to Angie Watt again for the recommendation. Next stop was the Rathbaun Farm, where the group all made scones as part of their scone-cooking class. While the scones baked, we moved over to the animal husbandry section of the farm, where we saw about 8 varieties of sheep, a Connemara Pony, and other animals. Then, the farmer had his sheepdog drive the sheep into his shearing pen, from which he pulled one of the animals out and sheared it bare. Although I’ve seen sheep sheared here in the states once or twice, it was an interesting demonstration anyway. Then, we went back to the kitchen to sample the scones we all made, and against all odds, they all turned out pretty well. Back at Dromoland, we shopped in the Beleek shop and found one or two things to buy there, and then it was on to the Terrace Room for a delicious but sad departing dinner, where we viewed photo slides the guides had taken during the week. Looking at them, I couldn’t believe how fast the week went by, but that’s always the way it is, isn’t it? We were lucky enough to have a 2:30 flight out of Shannon, so we were able to relax and walk the Dromoland grounds in the morning, which was a great way to end a great week. Our heartfelt thanks to our great tour guides, Courtney and Sarah – Courtney in spite of her corny jokes and Sarah in spite of her “foony” accent – and we hope to see you again some time! I highly, highly recommend this tour, particularly to people who have never been to Ireland, but even if you have, you might enjoy the opportunity to tour there the Disney way.
 


Anyway, there it is. I'll check back periodically to see if anyone has any questions that I didn't answer, and as soon as I get to the magical 10 post count, if people are interested I'll post the link to our picture gallery.
 
Thanks for linking me to this, dad! It was good to get a detailed report of the trip -- mom couldn't remember the name "Oliver Cromwell" and I couldn't figure out who she meant! "You know... he invaded Ireland? A long time ago?" "Napoleon? Who are you talking about?"

I can't wait to see the pictures -- it sounds like you guys had a very different trip to Ireland than I did, but I guess that's the difference between going with Disney and going with a college rugby team.

Also, we'll have to get some good notes and pictures of our trip to the World the end of this month. Maybe we can write up a joint trip report.
 
Thank you for posting - I really liked the details you included in your report.
If I could make one tiny suggestion would be to put some paragraphs in as it would make it easier to read, when it runs together it is harder on the eyes
 
Thanks for taking the time to write this report. Excellent info on the extra tidbits. We will note your hiking finds for our trip in May.
 
Thank you for posting - I really liked the details you included in your report.
If I could make one tiny suggestion would be to put some paragraphs in as it would make it easier to read, when it runs together it is harder on the eyes

I'll make a note about the paragraphs.
 
Reading through your trip report makes me realize how much I miss Ireland and how much I want to go back. :thumbsup2
 
Wonderful trip report! I'm off to view your pictures. Thank you for taking the time to share :goodvibes
 
The Temple Bar! That's one place I definitely remember seeing. :rolleyes1

And I agree about breaking the text up a bit. Might help the readability.
 
Glad you had a good time - we were on the first trip of the season (back in May) with Courtney and Francesc as our guides and Sara and Adam were also along as guides in training.

Reading your report brought back all the memories - I hope when can go again one day!
 
The Temple Bar! That's one place I definitely remember seeing. :rolleyes1

And I agree about breaking the text up a bit. Might help the readability.

It was foolish of you to go to the Temple Bar.

Thanks for the tip on readability.

Maybe we'll leave you home this month.:confused3 :confused3
 
You wouldn't want to go without me! Then who would be at the gates at opening with you? :)
 

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