First Seabourn cruise TR where inflatable kiddie pools, Cerberus heatwave &"would you like some sparkling with your apple juice" happened ;)

Mackenzie Click-Mickelson

Chugging along the path of life
Joined
Oct 23, 2015
Welcome to our cruise trip report!

I triple promise to finish this one…I didn’t finish our 2017 WDW/USO trip and I still hate that I haven’t. I opted to not to do one for our two DLR trips in 2019 nor our 2022 WDW/USO trip (really for a wedding) although I did share a photo or two from that one.



This is the first cruise my husband and I have taken together. We both have had 1 cruise prior when we were teens, neither of which were the best experiences. Our travel adventure this time took us away from home from July 13th coming back home evening of July 26th. Cruise embarked the 16th and disembarked on the 23rd.



A quick shout out to all the posters who helped first in giving input on our options for cruise lines and for the helpful tidbits along the way. Without so much random advice, help, and overall general travel advice I'm sure some things would have turned out differently.



Late summer/early fall 2022 I asked about options on cruise lines. We knew we wanted to do a more Greece focuses cruise but didn’t know what ship.



The options we had come down to were

  • Holland America
    • Ship
      • Oosterdam
    • Room category
      • Neptune Suite Have it All Package
  • Seabourn
    • Ship
      • Encore
    • Room category
      • Veranda Suite (all rooms are veranda)
  • Virgin Voyages
    • Ship
      • Resilient Lady
    • Room category
      • Seriously Suite
As far as pricing goes all were roughly around the same price and stops at least all the same general region. We ended up booking Seabourn Encore with a slight TA discount and $225 onboard credit as well as Seabourn’s promotion at that time of an automatic 2 category upgrade. Our room was a V3 category at the price of a V1.

This itinerary was

Venice, Italy

Vodice (Sibenik), Croatia

Kotor, Montenegro

Scenic Cruising Bay Of Kotor

Kerkira, Nisos Kerkira (Corfu), Greece

Sami, Cephalonia, Greece

Pylos, Greece

Nafplion, Greece

Piraeus (Athens), Greece
 
For the flight to Europe we ended up doing Air France using points transferred from Chase points in conjunction with cash. Flight from Chicago to Paris were exit row seats. They did not charge for my exit row seat as it was considered obstructed by the exit door (will show picture later). The ratio was more points to dollars.

For the flight home from Athens we did British Airways using points transferred from Chase points. Flight from Heathrow to Chicago were exit row seats. British Airways IMO charges entirely too much for seats. While the exit row seats on the long haul flight were $130/pp it wasn’t as if a middle non-exit row seat at $90/pp was all that much better. The ratio was more dollars to points.

Due to point cost and concerns over too many flight connections we opted to not book from KC either way. KC’s transatlantic or transpacific options are nil (with exception to Mexico/Caribbean seasonally, we lost Iceland a few years back) It will require connecting usually in Chicago anyhow or somewhere on the east or west coast depending on where you’re going. So we opted to take that issue out. However, this did mean we had to drive 8 hours from KC to Chicago and vice versa. I don’t remember the rental car cost but it wasn’t too too bad and slightly more expensive when coming from Chicago airport to KC. We booked a hotel for 1 night in Chicago on the way home using IHG points.

Both our Air France flight to Paris and our Heathrow to Chicago flights were changed/cancelled by the airlines many months in advance. Air France to nearly 3 hours earlier and British Airways 2 hours earlier.

Suffice to say our packing adventures were a lot, we packed then unpacked then packed again. Air France with our Economy ticket only allowed for 26 lbs total between your carry on and personal item and both size dimensions were tiny. So tiny in fact I had to purchase (well asked for as a Christmas gift lol) new carry on luggage as mine was too large. We made careful consideration to the weight of the two items combined and this turned out to be needed as they did weigh our items at the Chicago airport.
 
To prepare for this trip I bought multiple items. Hopefully the links all show up correctly.

A 3 pack of eye masks, they have different color combinations. This was a life saver really

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0832GKW4Q?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

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I also bought a foot hammock that I actually didn’t end up using but I know it would be useful for other flights.

In addition I bought phone holders that worked very well, small and easily carried in a bag

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TKPRKBN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

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I get motion sick but haven’t as of yet really seasick. I did buy seabands and seaband ginger gum but did not need any of it. I did bring it for two excursions where we would be doing very sharp turns a ton but I actually did okay on those too.

We bought a selfie stick. Due our height differences pictures are not easy. This worked well although for my husband slightly cumbersome I think overall, still though very much appreciated as our photos can really attest to. It is Bluetooth enabled with a detachable remote and it has feet at the bottom to be used as a tri-pod. It’s quite compact really and not overly heavy to carry.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K5QVJV3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

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Now onto the trip itself---

We set off for Chicago leaving the house just after 5am and dropped off rental car right around 1:45pm. The drive was fine but construction in IL is annoying 😒 oh let's just have the next 4 miles be one lane speeds of 45mph, well now you've gotten up to speed well here's another 3 miles of one lane again, then another 5 miles, you get the picture.

Boarding for Air France (which was a red-eye flight) went fine although upon boarding a woman who had been offered a paid upgraded seat prior to boarding and had declined it talked to the FA near us and requested to go ahead and take the seat if available because there was a baby near her (there were a few other babies on board too). She was able to move.

I thought it was really neat that Air France had a spot for a bassinet (turns out the particular plane we took for the long haul of British Airways had two spots for them). The mother in that row did use the bassinet for a while for her baby.

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We sat on the tarmac for 30 minutes due to weather in Canada airspace.

Overall I slept pretty well-about half the flight total. Went to sleep just after dinner around 8pm til midnight (central time). My husband slept not as well as me. The bathrooms were right there (which ordinarily is a plus) and the doors slammed shut loudly as well as the toilets flushing loudly and the several babies around were crying every so often. My over the ear headphones must have blocked out more noise than his earbud noise canceling ones that had a harder time with random noises as opposed to constant noises like a plane engine. For reference the BA flights where we had exit row seats were also by the bathrooms and the noise was less so their flushing system is quieter and the doors didn’t slam really.

Here’s the obstruction for my seat and as you can see it’s good for short people lol
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Food was pretty good for Air France
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My husband opted for wine for his meals (on the long haul BA flight as well)
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Breakfast (there was food underneath the muffin):
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Our 7 hour layover in Paris meant we could do something but honestly not much. We landed on Bastille Day and yes it was very busy on their metro. All we realistically did have time for was going into the city for a quick stop for some coffee. In hindsight we both said eh probably should have just stayed at the airport, it’s Paris so we really wanted to get out but yeah. Customs took no time on either end really it was really just getting out of the airport, getting through the transit, waiting for the train, walking from the station out, etc. We opted to not drop off our personal item and carry on luggage either as that would take additional time. It wasn’t bad carting that through but still an additional obstacle especially with the stairs.

This was my view of the Eiffel Tower flying in
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At the coffee shop
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The coffee was good as well as the banana bread although a tad dry on the edges the rest was very good

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Plane displays from Bastille Day
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Flight from Paris to Venice was uneventful…except for the descent. There was a family with two kids two rows behind us (a baby and a toddler). The mother was trying to soothe the baby by breastfeeding and it worked. The toddler must have been like me when I was younger and had ear pain because I have never in my entire life heard as shrill, prolonged, pain filled screams as that toddler. It went on non-stop for 20+mins. The dad well he was not really doing a whole lot to soothe the toddler, he basically tried to just muffle the kid’s mouth every now and then. The entire plane was understandably uncomfortable. It was extremely hard to hear. That child should just not fly for a long while, really.

Our luggage arrived off the carousel in Venice quite efficiently was very impressed by that. We had pre-arranged for a water taxi that was complimentary for our hotel on Murano island. This hotel was a Hyatt one booked for 2 nights on Hyatt points transferred from Chase CC. Water taxi arrived right on time (we were early for it). TBH for how common water taxis are we found the walk from the baggage carousel to be quite long to where water taxis are located at.

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This Hyatt was located in an old glass factory. Murano island is known for their glass. It was previously a hotel under a different name. The hotel had an outer wall layer put up over but not touching the old glass factory. I’m guessing it was to protect the old walls.

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View from the “balcony”. The door does open but there is a metal fence right there. You can see the outer wall here

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After checking in and taking a quick shower we grabbed a quick burger from the restaurant right out front of the hotel. The burger tasted much like sausage. We walked a bit catching a pretty sunset. Murano is also known as good place in Venice area to catch a sunset and I would totally agree.

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Now onto the trip itself---

We set off for Chicago leaving the house just after 5am and dropped off rental car right around 1:45pm. The drive was fine but construction in IL is annoying 😒 oh let's just have the next 4 miles be one lane speeds of 45mph, well now you've gotten up to speed well here's another 3 miles of one lane again, then another 5 miles, you get the picture.

Boarding for Air France (which was a red-eye flight) went fine although upon boarding a woman who had been offered a paid upgraded seat prior to boarding and had declined it talked to the FA near us and requested to go ahead and take the seat if available because there was a baby near her (there were a few other babies on board too). She was able to move.

I thought it was really neat that Air France had a spot for a bassinet (turns out the particular plane we took for the long haul of British Airways had two spots for them). The mother in that row did use the bassinet for a while for her baby.

View attachment 780803
Baby bassinets are so awesome. I first flew with my oldest when she was three months old. Antalya to Istanbul to New York to Atlanta to Dothan, Alabama. The Istanbul to NY had a bassinet for us and she slept so well and I managed to rest a bit too.
 
Baby bassinets are so awesome. I first flew with my oldest when she was three months old. Antalya to Istanbul to New York to Atlanta to Dothan, Alabama. The Istanbul to NY had a bassinet for us and she slept so well and I managed to rest a bit too.
It certainly gave that mother some moments to herself and the baby got a bit of a break. I think they are wonderful idea!
 
Baby bassinets are so awesome. I first flew with my oldest when she was three months old. Antalya to Istanbul to New York to Atlanta to Dothan, Alabama. The Istanbul to NY had a bassinet for us and she slept so well and I managed to rest a bit too.
Most longhaul planes have them. BA also has something for slightly older infants who are still under two-years and are flying as lap children (you shouldn't use the bassinets once the baby can sit up and/or is over a certain (fairly small) weight) that is kinda like a soft, reclined car seat. I've not seen them on other airlines (doesn't mean that they don't exist, of course).
 
Venice day!​

After waking up we opted to eat breakfast at the hotel. Murano island doesn’t have a huge amount of dining options and opening times (just generally speaking it seems with the various countries we visited) were later I think many of us are used to choosing especially if you’re wanting to get up and get out. The hotel had a buffet for 24 Euros each. It was a decent one but a bit much in cost my husband felt. With limited options it was fine and I appreciated that they had one. They did have champagne and juice for mimosas if you wanted.

After breakfast we started our journey on Venice’s public transit. There was actually a water bus station right outside of the hotel so very convenient. There are several different public transit options but not all stations and tickets are for each option.

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We consider ourselves fairly good at figuring out public transportation even after a bit of a learning curve. Venice’s was not too bad in figuring it out except for when the boat didn’t have a label of what route it was for and when a line that was supposed to be running at a certain time was not due to an unofficial holiday and there was no way to know that. The attendants for the water buses (as they were called) were not exactly the most helpful. It wasn’t really a language barrier (which we would have understood much more) but rather a more cagey interaction.

So after purchasing the tickets via WhatsApp the next boat to take us to Venice island that was supposed to be there was not labeled so we didn’t get on it, but it turns out that was the right boat. So we had to wait a bit longer for the next one to go. Most of the boats were labeled but some were not and from a non-local’s perspective you don’t want to get on a boat that will take you to someplace completely away from where you need to be.

For Murano island they usually take you to a stop on the other side of Venice island from St. Mark’s Square however it doesn’t take long (maybe 15 mins walk) to get to St. Mark’s Square so this isn’t a big issue (unless you have mobility issues). Alternatively once you make it to Venice island you can catch another water boat transport to take you around Venice island or you can arrange for a private (but pricey) water taxi.

I will say our experience with the water bus is they are very efficient, they do not wait however for anyone so you need to be very prepared to get on as unless the schedule calls for it they stop, open the gate let people out and in, close the gate and go and you may not be seated yet before they begin moving again. Keeps a good schedule for the most part but is a little hectic when you’re not used to it.
 
After arriving on Venice island we turned on our GPS for walking instructions and this worked almost perfectly. I honestly didn’t pay as much attention to the names of the streets we needed to turn on/walk on but just followed the map on the phone and paid attention to the vibrations. One of the neatest things about Venice is actually exploring the back alleys. I did remark to my husband normally walking in alley ways are a bit sketchy lol but it was just what you did. It was cool to see how people’s doors were right by you. And it’s a good way to find public squares that are not touristy and thus much more quiet.

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First actual stop of the day was St. Mark’s Square with the attractions near there. While we did not choose to do a tour of anything here we did get to see what we wanted to see. It was very busy in terms of the tours for St. Mark’s Basilica and Doge’s Palace although the square itself was not that busy when we got there.

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The details for the Basilica are astonishing and I can only imagine how the inside looked


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Next to the Square is a bridge called The Bridge of Sighs where I had saw on a list of things to see before leaving on the trip. According to wiki “The view from the Bridge of Sighs was the last view of Venice that convicts saw before their imprisonment.”

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We made our way to the Academia Bridge which is a wooden bridge
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We then made our way to the Rialto Bridge
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The main side of the bridge was super busy. These are from the less busy side.


Main side
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To the left of the picture above is a restaurant that we ended up eating at for lunch. A tourist trap filled one but had a bathroom and great views to people watch. I’m sure there are many better places to go to. It was however the first time we encountered the coperto which is a service charge (I believe this one was 3 euros per person). So this service charge is basically a table/cover charge…to you know..sit you down, give you utensils, plates, tablecloth, as well as bread service, etc.
 
After lunch we decided to go back to Murano for a few hours but made a leisurely way back.

A beautiful church we found along the way
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On Murano we decided to make a stop earlier than our hotel would be to take a look at the lighthouse
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In all the packing I had neglected to pack jewelry. I had in my head what I wanted to bring but completely forgot about it. So I decided to pick up my first souvenir. Murano is known for their glass and most of their shops are glass focused. I wanted a simple necklace and ended up finding it in this one shop
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It’s a bit short for my preference so I plan to buy an extender for it. Later on I was kicking myself for not having bought another one so the next morning we ended up going to the same shop again once they opened (which I think was 9:30 or 10am) and I got this one as well. Hard to tell but there are gold flecks in it. Both have the certificate shown below.
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The shop owner was a very sweet gentleman, he took pride in the Murano glass and you could get the impression people probably bought a lot of non-Murano glass in touristy shops without realizing it. Murano as I had been reading long ago when we booked our hotel for there has been seeing such a decline in glass making demand likely as there's so many places to get glass not made in Italy. Even some shops on Murano have been called out in reviews as selling items made in China for example.
 
We planned to go back to Venice later on for a sunset so in the meantime we chilled at the hotel and made a timed entry reservation for the Murano Glass Museum located just around the corner from the hotel. We actually didn’t need a timed reservation in the end as they didn’t even care about that and we entered something like 20mins before our reservation.

This museum may not seem like much but there’s a lot of history there and I think while maybe not the most amazing museum experience if you find yourself in Murano it’s worth going to just to get into the understanding of Murano’s importance for glass making and a bit of how the art of glass is done.

This was my favorite piece. I’m not sure if the black is very thin wood but I was just very drawn to it all. The coloring, the swirls, the extremely intricate details of the outer layer of wood?
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I was blown away by how intricate the details were in this above picture. They had quite a few of these but seriously how do you get this much detail with glass?? It reminded me of candy making where you can get the images inside but this was on a way different level.

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From what I remember the below picture was of very very old glass
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Venice/Murano is the first place where clear glass was created in the mid-1400s and allowed Murano to produce for a while the only place for mirrors.
 
After we got done at the glass museum we made our way back to Venice. I forgot to mention on our way to Murano from Venice earlier we purchased a 24 hour transit pass. This was not available to purchase at the stations near our hotel as the only online options (and online/WhatsApp was the way to purchase) didn’t have this as an option. So long as we came back to Venice later that evening, a 24 hour pass was more economical by a few euros.

This building looks like it’s been sinking for a while
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Sunset in Venice
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We actually ate at the restaurant for a late dinner pictured in the lower left corner of the above picture. Many people eat late, it seems liked things were just getting busy at 8:30-9pm.
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Nighttime in Venice

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Another building that looks like it has been sinking though not as badly as the other one I put a picture of
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The boats above are a SeaDream Yacht and a UniWorld boat. Venice has opted to ban cruise ships from docking inside their lagoon except for small ones. Our cruise ship was considered too large to dock there but those two above are small enough. As a tidbit it’s just been released that Amsterdam is banning cruise ships all together and will relocate their terminal outside of the city center area so you’ll want to get in a cruise soon if you want to stop there without having to be a distance away.
 

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