I am so not a cat person.
... Somehow, when talking about pets, I was talked into a cat. I know NOTHING about them. What is the best litter? Food? Other things I need to think of before we bring one home? Do I need to get it declawed?
We are going to Animal Welfare for a "summer special" - I think it is $38 for a cat, microchipped, fixed, shots, etc.
Congrats on choosing a kitty! You've been given lots of good advice here, and I'll throw in my .02.
Every pet will have its own "person"-ality, but most can be somewhat trained to be a well-mannered family member, if they aren't naturally that way. If climbing or scratching in unwanted places, take him/her to the place that it is allowed. A squirt bottle or water pistol (can you still buy those?) usually works for deterrence, since most just don't like to be wet. In the past, I successfully used folded duct tape on the edge of countertops to stop one from ever wanting to get up there again.
I use Cat's Pride Multi-cat scoopable (even with only one cat), it clumps the best I've found and it's reasonably cheap! Have you seen the Litter Genie? I got a tip here on DIS several years ago, before that was available, to use the Diaper Genie! Still works good in our household. Bag the scoops, and drop it in. Take out with the trash once a week, no odor!!
PLEASE, feed canned or other wet food, not dry. Even the "high-quality" dry foods have entirely too much carb for a cat. They CAN NOT DIGEST grains, and do not need high carbs of any other source, they just aren't built that way -- they're guts are built for eating mice, birds, rabbits, squirrels, lizards and the like. But apparently most vets aren't really taught feline nutrition in vet school, because they continue to peddle garbage labeled as food. This site,
CatInfo.org, has a chart that details the Protein/ Fat/ Carb level of nearly every canned food on the market, and you can see how they stack up.
Best ones will have >40% protein, <50% fat, and <10% carbs. If you get an older cat, they also need lower phosphorus to protect their kidneys, and there is another chart that covers that.
The other trouble with dry food (besides carbs) is that cats just don't have a high thirst drive, so tend to not drink enough water for what they need. So they need real meat, and those brands deliver, also with low enough phosphorus. We also use a cat fountain for the water dish. The flowing water entices more drinking than still water, supposedly. Seems to work for Herbie, he has lots of "water" output in the litterbox, and he hasn't had any hint of stones/crystals that were troubling him. Oh, and some foods add salt to make a kitty thirsty. They don't need salt added to their diet.
I only found out about all this
after we lost my 14yo Gigi to diabetes. Had to give her insulin shots for a year, but didn't know that the high carbs in even the Rx kibble were killing her.
We recently adopted 11yo Herbie, and we transitioned him off the Rx dry stuff for bladder trouble, and he is healthy (vet-checked), happy, active and playful eating 3 flavors of Weruva brand. Merrick brand figured good for him, he just didn't like any of the flavors we tried in that kind.
I also prefer not to declaw. Herbie was re-homed with us, and he was already declawed. Looks like he has stubby front feet, since the ends of his toes were chopped. He still instinctively needs to stretch and "claw" at his basket and tower post, for the exercise to his muscles. He also likes to jump up to the middle level of the tower and hop up to the high perch, instead of climb up from the lower level.
Some critters like dangly toys, some like crinkly toys, some like balls that rattle, some like chasing laser light, some will carry around a stuffed mousy while muffling a meow. The only things Herbie will chase is a cat toy that looks like "3 rings from a milk jug cap", and a ping-pong ball.
I wish you all the best with the new addition to your family!