Show us your 2011 Fireworks shots!

Here are three I took from the top of the world lounge. These are my very first attempt at fireworks, using all the great advice from the nice folks here on the boards. I zoomed in because I was so excited to try the shots, and will back off to get more perspective this August. Any comments/advice would be appreciated (but be nice since this was my first go 'round) :goodvibes


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For those that take FW pics @ WDW, how do you find the space to set up a tripod? Is there a good table top tripod for DSLR's to use? Set up on a trash can maybe? :confused3
 
For those that take FW pics @ WDW, how do you find the space to set up a tripod? Is there a good table top tripod for DSLR's to use? Set up on a trash can maybe? :confused3

Some like to put a gorillapod on one of the trash cans, but I use a tripod. I don't like being dependent upon finding the right trashcan or table. And I like having a really tall tripod. I just make sure I find my spot early enough that others can see where I'll be and fill in around me. And really, it doesn't take up THAT much room.
 
Here are three I took from the top of the world lounge. These are my very first attempt at fireworks, using all the great advice from the nice folks here on the boards. I zoomed in because I was so excited to try the shots, and will back off to get more perspective this August. Any comments/advice would be appreciated (but be nice since this was my first go 'round) :goodvibes


Don't worry about us, we are an empathetic and lovable bunch! You did great so don't be so hard on yourself. Fireworks shots are pretty much a "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" sort of thing. Some people like just the colorful bursts and others like to have a foreground object, like the castle or the silhouette of people sitting on the beach.

If your fireworks shots are missing the color and are all white you may want to consider lowering the ISO of your camera to it's lowest point and having a smaller f stop, say between 16 or 18. Try to experiment with your settings and the amount of time that you keep the shutter open.

If you allow too much light to hit the sensor the fireworks will be overexposed and appear all white.

Conversely if you don't keep the shutter open for a long enough period of time you won't have any trailing lines of streaking fireworks.

That's why the key here is to decrease the sensitivity of the camera's light sensor so that the fireworks:
1) are Not over exposed and white but still retain their color
2) Have long trails because you were able to keep the shutter open longer and capture more of their path.

To decrease the sensitivity of your camera's sensor:

1) decrease ISO to your lowest setting

2) have a really small aperture, say F14, F16, or F18 so that not a lot of light gets through the opening to the sensor. Keep in mind that some lenses have F stops that can go higher than F18, even to F32 or higher. Generally speaking we don't use these ultra small holes (f stops) because they have the potential to introduce diffraction of the light rays with out adding additional benefits.

3) consider using filters on the front of your lens that will further cut down on the amount of light reaching the sensor. I mentioned in my 1st post on this thread that I used a Neutral Density filter which looks like a dark piece of glass that you cover your camera's lens with. By using that and having the sensor set to it's lowest setting and by using an aperture of F18 I was able to get multiple fireworks bursts with long trails, with out losing the color.

I know right now you're seeing some of our pictures and thinking that we are wizzes at this, but truth be told, it wasn't that long ago that we were in your shoes and just learning! The nice folks on this board patiently answered our questions, and we practiced and learned and made all the mistakes.... and then we got the hang of it!

You will get there too, so be patient, keep trying, keep learning and getting to know your camera and it's controls, keep taking pictures and keep asking!


For those that take FW pics @ WDW, how do you find the space to set up a tripod? Is there a good table top tripod for DSLR's to use? Set up on a trash can maybe? :confused3

My first trip using a tripod I set up 2 hours before hand right up against the railing by the Crystal Palace and literally beat people off of my tripod when the show started.

For this trip I was running late so I walked up to the center of the hub, set my tripod up, got moved up with the crowd 3 times by cast members and was lucky enough that no children on shoulders appeared to block my shots.

There is no perfect location for MK fireworks. What there are are perfect circumstances, like it rains, and then stops but the park has cleared out and then they have the fireworks anyway, or you set up behind a row of people in wheelchairs that are not going to stand for the fireworks.

There are legions of us that have the perfect spot and then some douche comes and stands right in front of you at the last minute. It's all really a matter of luck and circumstances.

Good luck all!

Marlton Mom
 
@ Marlton Mom. Thanks for that post. Great info. My next WDW trip will be my 1st with my Sony A55 and I am looking for all the tips that I can get. ;) Trying to figure out what I should bring for lenses, tri-pod, mono-pod etc.

I may want to try FW's shots at MK and Epcot next trip, but I like to carry as little as possible when I visit the parks. On all my WDW vacations, I have taken P&S camera's and surprisingly got some pretty good hand held FW's shots with those but I just want more control and want to take that next step.
 
For those that take FW pics @ WDW, how do you find the space to set up a tripod? Is there a good table top tripod for DSLR's to use? Set up on a trash can maybe? :confused3

I've also tried the guerillapod but found it difficult to level at first. Also, if you use a longish lens you need to be sure to check the balance because the tripod will fall toward the lens if the front leg isn't far enough out. I usually use a standard telescopic leg tripod with a gear driven top that can be cranked up after the legs reach max height. My trick is to use family members to "block" for me once I set up. DS sits in front of the tripod and my wife will sit on the side of my primary direction for shooting. If I'm shooting ELP for example, I usually don't take pictures of the floats once they pass by, so she sits on the side of oncoming traffic. My son blocks the area directly to my front...it works fairly well. But I would agree, luck plays a big part in having clear sight lines for shooting in crowds. Get there early!!
 
Don't worry about us, we are an empathetic and lovable bunch! You did great so don't be so hard on yourself. Fireworks shots are pretty much a "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" sort of thing. Some people like just the colorful bursts and others like to have a foreground object, like the castle or the silhouette of people sitting on the beach.

If your fireworks shots are missing the color and are all white you may want to consider lowering the ISO of your camera to it's lowest point and having a smaller f stop, say between 16 or 18. Try to experiment with your settings and the amount of time that you keep the shutter open.

If you allow too much light to hit the sensor the fireworks will be overexposed and appear all white.

Conversely if you don't keep the shutter open for a long enough period of time you won't have any trailing lines of streaking fireworks.

That's why the key here is to decrease the sensitivity of the camera's light sensor so that the fireworks:
1) are Not over exposed and white but still retain their color
2) Have long trails because you were able to keep the shutter open longer and capture more of their path.

To decrease the sensitivity of your camera's sensor:

1) decrease ISO to your lowest setting

2) have a really small aperture, say F14, F16, or F18 so that not a lot of light gets through the opening to the sensor. Keep in mind that some lenses have F stops that can go higher than F18, even to F32 or higher. Generally speaking we don't use these ultra small holes (f stops) because they have the potential to introduce diffraction of the light rays with out adding additional benefits.

3) consider using filters on the front of your lens that will further cut down on the amount of light reaching the sensor. I mentioned in my 1st post on this thread that I used a Neutral Density filter which looks like a dark piece of glass that you cover your camera's lens with. By using that and having the sensor set to it's lowest setting and by using an aperture of F18 I was able to get multiple fireworks bursts with long trails, with out losing the color.


Marlton Mom


Thanks for the kind words and advice. I'll add your insight to my notebook. It's tough to change settings when you're caught up in that rush of shooting, but I'll try to calm down and do it. You know how it is... your location is good, you think you're all set up, the show starts, and you're firing like crazy at everything that moves across the sky!!! Ya-hooooo:goodvibes
 
I am not a photographer, but I love these fw shots! We just got a new DSLR and can't wait to try it in September at Disney (for fw). Thanks for all the advice and info. We will be taking a tripod and we have the filters you talked about. I want to learn more about photography, but admit to being a bit intimidated. I've been so used to the point & shoot digital cameras that I feel "dummied down". :rotfl: This thread gives me hope! Thanks!:goodvibes
 
We don't celebrate the 4th July in Oz....and it is mid-winter over here. But every Friday night over July, there are fireworks at the Docklands to entice people to head out and about. These were taken tonight with a 10 - 22 mm lens, ISO 800, f/22, mostly between 4 - 8 secs. Tripod is essential (yes...I remembered to bring it along and use it). I also set my camera to a 2 second timer, instead of using a remote trigger, which allows me to take the shot and the camera to stabilise again (and not shake because of my hand pressure).


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princess::upsidedow
 
So, trying to upload first photo, thought I would start here. :3dglasses

Here's my firework shot: Stone Mountain, GA
LatesummerschoolWDW632.jpg


gosh...sorry it is so big...there must be a resizing trick somewhere... :confused3
 
So, trying to upload first photo, thought I would start here. :3dglasses

Here's my firework shot: Stone Mountain, GA
LatesummerschoolWDW632.jpg


gosh...sorry it is so big...there must be a resizing trick somewhere... :confused3

Nope, this is fine as far as size is concerned and you did a great job so congratulations!! :cheer2:

~Marlton Mom
 
One of my favorites and the closest I've come to getting a decent grand finale...I am getting the K-r Tuesday can't wait to put my little Kodak Z915 into semi-retirement..

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That's a great picture Tigress! Good luck with your new camera!

Marlton Mom
 
I just wanted to say that all of you have taken some pretty amazing fireworks shots.:thumbsup2

I am hoping to try my hand at taking some on my trip to Disney this upcoming Aug. I can only hope they come out near as good as all of these. I bought a new larger card so I will have rom to tkae lots of pics thus lots of room for my errors lol.

If I could bounce off you all what I think I have picked up to try I am going to use a low ISO say 100 or 200, small apiture say f16 or f18 and either pick up a remote shutter release or set timer for every 2 sec. Lastly I havwe to figure out if my Canon Rebel XS can do this "bulb" thing if not would 30 sec shutter speed work well?

Thanks for any input.
 
For a thirty second exposure, you would be best to add neutral density filter, otherwise your image would probably be overexposed.
 
I agree! Great shots Tigress and Nature Mom! We saw that light show on Stone Mountain on the way to our first Disney trip ever.... back in 99........ back in the days when I thought once night came I had to put AWAY the SLR!

DonaldDuck888..... As ChiSoxKeith pointed out....... you would need a neutral density filter to get a 30 second shot. However, I still wouldn't just set the camera to do 30 seconds. As you're watching, you want the flexibility to end the shot sooner if there have been a lot of really bright bursts. You sort of just have to get a feel for how long you can leave the shutter open.

Some of the shots I posted I did with a ND filter and around a 30 second exposure, but I wish I had gone less. With our local display, it turns out most of the shots are all in the same spot in my frame, so it just made the shot "busier" than I prefer. That's the fun of all this though....... the experimenting.
 

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